Barahi Jungle Lodge: Primeval Nepal

In another country
But one that feels like home
From the blankets of green to the drongoโ€™s trajectory
Everything echoes of the forests I used to roam.

We move through life craving new experiences, but all the time unconsciously, seeking something that resonates with that which we already know and love. When I first encountered the forest, it wasn’t like anything I’d ever known. I’d been born and brought up in one of the world’s largest, richest and most populous cities after all. Yet, I knew I was home. The trees, the birds and the wilderness struck a primeval chord deep within my soul. That was when I realised that cities aren’t the natural habitat of humans either, a fact we are often lost to. And that’s why the mind quietens, the soul sings and the body rejoices in the scent of the wild when one is in the jungle. We’ve all left fragments of our selves with the trees but lucky for us, they are loyal gatekeepers.

I exited an airplane and found myself in Kathmandu airport, along with numerous other Indians, Nepalis and the odd white-skinned traveller. Catching a domestic flight to Bharatpur was like a mini-adventure. These are small and chaotic airports and while some staff speak a smattering of Hindi, you can’t really count on it. But the flight itself was twenty minutes of stunning mountain vistas and the best view of the Everest I could ever have hoped for. We flew higher than any bird and we towered over the highest creations known to man. I felt blessed to be in Nepal and even more blessed to be venturing into the Terai, the subtropical region known for its rich biodiversity.

A lilting breeze
Nudges the wooden chime into motion
The sweet cries of Tharu children
Enhance the rustic notion.

The first thing I look at when I enter any room, is the verandah. It is my own private window to the world, a limbo of sorts, where I’m home and still flirting with the outdoors. The verandah of my cottage at Barahi Jungle Lodge came with a pretty wooden chime that tinkled in the morning breeze and sent me rushing for pen and paper. I saw a jackal peek from between the bushes on one occasion and a bunch of local children enjoying boisterous games on another. Beyond the woods lay the Rapti River which is arguably the best part of the lodge. The ethereal boat rides in the morning fog and the dazzling sunsets unfolding over its shallow water will not be easily forgotten.

I enjoyed wonderful French press style coffee in my room, thanks to the fragrant powder and plunger the lodge provided. Funny little frogs sat in sockets carved into the wall behind my bed, staying guard while I slept. The colours of the decor were borrowed from the earth and the elegant simplicity of the cottage gave me restful sleep and much poetic inspiration. The day we arrived, we caught a last glimpse of the luxurious pool before Meghauli found itself in the grip of darkness. But darkness was good, because it meant we’d get to sit by a bonfire and watch a series of beautiful Tharu dances, compered by the multi-talented in-house naturalist Saket Shrouti. They weren’t professional dancers – mainly members of the staff but their joyous faces and the stories interwoven into the performances were such a pleasure to witness. In the end, we broke into dance ourselves, while the women crooned softly into the night in lieu of recorded music.

Tharu dance at Barahi Jungle Lodge

A jackal peeks from between the bushes
While Chitwan forest stands sentry
Clouds of fog float over the Rapti River
What is this if not natureโ€™s poetry?

Truth be told, we spent less simply soaking in the beauty of the lodge than we’d have liked. But what could we do, the treasures of Chitwan National Park were hard to resist and there were so many things to do, like bathing Ranikali, the elephant who enjoyed a good scrub, going on a walking safari and hunting for the remains of legendary rhinos, watching seabirds in flight and lazing crocodiles on a boat safari, visiting the local Tharu community and being treated to a peacock dance in the middle of the forest. But there was one night when I felt the spirit of the lodge come alive, as truly as the flames of the crackling bonfire. Varun Kumar, the respected manager of the lodge and Saket put together a glorious bush dinner for me and a few other guests. We tried the local beer Gorkha, talked about the transience of life and allowed the trance music to seep into our senses. It was my second night in Nepal and I was so glad there were two more before I left the Terai.

Sunrise at the lodge
Sunrise at the lodge

One morning, we took a birding tour through the lodge and in a clearing close to the river, we found a treasure trove of winged beauties, all fluttering around the cotton silk trees with their vivid red and orange blooms. Butterflies sporting enticing colours and patterns flew restlessly, pausing only for a moment or two, while we scrambled for our cameras. On our way back to the lodge, we chanced upon the living enclosure of the in-house elephants. They were feeding on their favourite ‘sandwiches’ rolled in hay that the elephants expertly untied and shook off with their nimble trunks. Food at the lodge was a melange of Indian, Thai, Chinese and Nepali cuisines but what I loved most was the sumptuous Nepali thali with many varieties of vegetables, rice, roti, the ubiquitous saag preparation, yoghurt, Nepali tomato chutney and dessert.

The blissfulness of Barahi Jungle Lodge extends far beyond the lodge itself. The neighbouring river, the surrounding forests and their exotic denizens are as much a part of the experience. While I’ll reserve the wildlife safari tales for another day, I’ll leave you with this beautiful video of a sunset we witnessed at the confluence of the Rapti and Narayani Rivers after a mellow boat ride. The wind blew fiercely, perhaps to compete with the passion of the setting sun. I stood on the edge of the cliff, listening to the merry sound of the water flowing between the pebbles. The river was far below me, flanked by a little stretch of white sand. It was enough to create the illusion of being at sea. But where we were was even more magical – the meeting point of two beautiful rivers, both reflecting the flaming sun. Two glasses of wine later, everyone else returned to the lodge. But we remained sitting there, unwilling to leave that world of glowing saffron behind. I might have never left, but for the promise of more adventures the following day.

Practical information

Barahi Jungle Lodge
Courtesy: Barahi Jungle Lodge

Barahi Jungle Lodge at Meghauli, Nepal is a premier wildlife luxury resort owned and operated by Pugdundee Safaris. All cottages at the lodge face the Rapti River and one has to cross the river to reach Chitwan National Park, a World Heritage Site. The park is best known for its rhino population. Read my concise TripAdvisor review here. All the activities mentioned in this post were organised by the lodge. Rooms begin at Rs 16000 per night.

  • Address: Andrauli, Meghauli-1, West Chitwan, Nepal
  • Bookings:
  • How to reach: Fly to Bharatpur airport and then it’s an hour long drive to the lodge.
  • Best for: Wildlife enthusiasts and couples and families looking to relax in the lap of nature. A minimum of two nights stay is highly recommended.
  • When to go: Chitwan National Park is open throughout the year.

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