Category Archives: Haryana

Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon: Artful excellence

It’s proving particularly difficult for me to write about Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon. Frankly, the hotel has SO many redeeming qualities that I really don’t know where to begin. Should I start by describing its arty, renovated avatar with cutting edge interiors, a revolving art exhibition and a calming fountain outside the all-day restaurant that comes alive with mesmerising colours in the night? Or perhaps, I should introduce you to its legacy of winning awards every single year and the fact that it is the flagship hotel of the Intercontinental Hotels Group in South Asia, owing to its consistent excellence. But I guess I’ve already plunged into my review of Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon. It’s one of the best five star hotels I’ve stayed at, not just in India but the entire world. But rather than focusing on my experience, let’s assume that you’re the lucky one visiting Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon. Want to know how it all plays out? Read on, and don’t forget to share and comment!

View from my room at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
The view from your room, at night

You walk in.

You’ve probably driven down from the airport (which is only 30min away), or been chauffeured in a luxury Toyota Camri by the hotel. Either way, you don’t fail to smile when you encounter Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon. There’s a plush purple couch next to the reception (perfect for photos!), lots of grey and purple seating and smooth marble flooring. Tall wooden pillars balance the interiors with a touch of warmth. Beyond the transparent walls, you see water cascading over lovely green hexagonal structures, interspersed by miniature palm trees. It’s always nice to see flashes of green, even inside a hotel. Presently, the concierge tells you your room is ready. You quickly finish your iced welcome drink and proceed to the elevator.

Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
The hotel, as seen from the outside

You take in your room.

If you’re smart, you’ve asked for a seventh floor room, which is right at the top of the hotel. You walk down a narrow carpeted corridor, open the door, and breathe in sharply at the loveliness of the room. A large double bed with fluffy pillows and beautiful maroon cushions, wooden boarded flooring, wide flat screen television, ecru couch, writing desk and French windows that extend across the entire wall are laid out before you. The curtains are remote-controlled, you note. You watch them swish back slowly at the press of a button. The view outside is breath-taking, Gurgaon’s crisscrossing flyovers and skyscrapers in the distance and closer home, a long blue pool, surrounded by umbrellas and deck chairs closer home.

Room at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
Your digs for the night!

Table lamps on either side of the bed swathe the room in a mellow golden glow, while a floral painting at the back helps settle your mind. On the table, you spot some fruit, cookies, chocolates and almonds with a welcome note. You almost missed that, didn’t you? You peek into the tea and coffee chest and there are several gourmet varieties such as hibiscus, chamomile, lemon Darjeeling and masala tea waiting to be tried. The bathroom has its own story to tell. A sweet bathtub promises to soothe you after a day of hectic sightseeing and a bundle of Biotique toiletries lie beside the washbasin. But it is the remote-controlled Toto toilet that captures your attention the most. There are buttons to umm, clean and dry your rear and many pressure options. This is luxury on a whole new level, you think. Now it’s time to drop your bags and lie down on that bed with some soft music. There’s even a speaker that you can connect your phone or music player to.

You look around at the hotel.

Swimming pool at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
You’re going to enjoy swimming here

Eventually, you do wake up. And you want to know what the rest of this place looks like. You take the elevator and go to the ground floor, where the doorman greets you with a ‘good morning ma’am’. You smile back and start walking aimlessly, stopping at whatever catches your fancy. A lot of things do. Connexions, the 24 hour bar looks really interesting from the outside, with its multiple level seating, wide bar top and Glenlivet display. Further ahead, you take a left and encounter a series of paintings propped on easels. You enquire about them later and realise that they can be bought too. You take the elevator to go to the first level and survey the pool, spa and gym. The pool is temperature controlled but most of the foreign guests are simply sunbathing on the deck chairs. Unlike those in most hotels, the gym appears to be extremely busy. You duck out quickly, so as not to disturb the members. The manager tells you that it’s open 24 hours a day and has around 80 members. Body Zone, the spa, has an enticing menu of therapies and you decide to give in to temptation later. There’s also a nice lounge with computers and charging ports for club members.

Fountain at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
The fountain at night

You sample the buffet at Café G.

All the walking around has made you really hungry and it’s time for a spot of luncheon, as the British would say. Café G is really one of the warmest restaurants you’ve seen, full of cheery, knowledgeable staff, a variety of counters ranging from ‘make your own salad’ to Indian, Japanese, Thai and of course, desserts in an attractive glass cabinet. The seating space is divided into two areas, the first being closer to the band currently performing while the upper level is cosier and offers more intimacy. Guests also have the option of sitting outdoors for the cool and breezy weather (or smoking alongside your meal). There are cushiony sofas as well as chairs and you obviously choose a chair – well because you don’t like to recline when you eat! The chef says their teppanyaki noodles are really special so you place an order for the vegetarian version. In the meanwhile, you pick up some sushi and pile on steamed rice and yellow Thai curry onto your plate.

Cafe G at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
Cafe G

You sit outside, watching the fountain while you eat. The server comes around every now and then, plying you with healthful juices, cappuccino and whatnot. Eventually, the noodles arrive and they’re as delicious as promised. The Thai curry is authentic, spicier than the Indianised versions restaurants here normally dish up. And you’d have had a second helping of sushi if you didn’t need to reserve space for dessert. You try the chocolate mousse in a jar (rich, smooth and truly divine) and a slice of red velvet cake (fluffy and light). They put you in the mood for a good, long siesta!

Teppanyaki noodles at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
Teppanyaki noodles

You indulge in a spa.

You make an appointment for a 60 minute brightening and whitening facial (around Rs 5500 with taxes) after perusing the list of facials, massages and salon treatments that are available at the spa. The petite therapist asks you to lie down on a bed in a dimly lit room. There’s light music and as you vaguely feel her cleansing, scrubbing, steaming, massaging, exfoliating and coating your face in a pack, you tune out and enter a kind of relaxed stupor. The best parts are when she cleans your face with a warm towel. You decide to try that out when you’re home. You have no idea how an entire hour passes under her able hands. At the end, she asks you to wash your face thoroughly and towel. A sparkly new face gazes back at you in the mirror. You walk away with a spring in your step.

You want a drink.

Drinks at Connexions, the bar at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
Drinks and something to munch on

Finally, it’s that time of the day when you can rightfully walk into a bar and ask for a stiff one, on the rocks. Connexions has a live performance on every other night and you just got lucky. You could sit at the lower level for a good view of the cricket match on TV, perch on a bar stool or proceed to the upper level for swankier seating. You can get anything you want here but whiskies are their speciality – they have 108 varieties! So you get yourself a good glass of scotch and watch the evening melt into the night.

You’re ready for dinner.

Wildfire restaurant at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
The view from your table

Are you now? Then it’s time to experience the inimitable churrasco (Brazilian barbeque) experience at Wildfire, part of the international chain of gourmet Brazilian and Italian restaurants. The rich brown and gold interiors lend a dramatic flair to this restaurant, in keeping with the flamboyant style of serving the barbeques. Soup and salad is available at a buffet counter and you enjoy a bowl of excellent potato and leek soup while you await the barbeque. The server comes to your table with your choice of meat, fruit or vegetable on a sizzling skewer from which you pick your portion with a pair of tongs. The food is fresh, succulent and flavourful. For vegetarians, the choice is between cheesy broccoli, fresh mushrooms and honeyed pineapple, which also makes for a great dessert. Wildfire has an enviable wine list as wine goes best with the Brazilian treats they serve. You decide to try the Ti Amo Prosecco and polish off an entire bottle with the meal.

On your way to your room, you catch a glimpse of the banquet hall decked up for someone’s wedding. It’s nothing short of a dream come true.

Banquet hall at Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon
Banquet hall

Ready to book?

Have I enticed you enough with the artful excellence of Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon? If you’re heading to that part of India, you simply must experience their hospitality. And if not, schedule a trip in spring (March) and soak in the splendour of the National Capital Region (NCR) with Crowne Plaza Today Gurgaon’s full day city tours. Click here to book your stay.

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Peepal Kothi: Leaf-rimmed tranquillity

The evening waves a wand of coolness over Haryana. But even as the temperature goes down, the birdsong rises in volume. Seize the day they must, and in the last remaining minutes of light, their excited chatter and the intoxicating fragrance of freshly watered grass fills the air. Voices carry over long distances in this still swathe of greenery and I can hear clearly, the guttural voices of swarthy, local men. Thau, the old caretaker and gardener is a constant presence and here in the thick of the trees, I hear nothing of the sounds within my cottage. I watch myriad birds flitting by and the shyer ones announce their presence with harsh and at times, almost human calls. Three little children run around like cheery sprites, vanishing the moment I attempt to capture them in my lens. This is Peepal Kothi, and it has charmed me to the hilt.

Thauji, the old gardener of Peepal Kothi
Thau, the old caretaker and gardener is a constant presence
I get the cheery sprites to pose for my camera
I get the cheery sprites to pose for my camera

The Port House

There isn’t a single hint of monsoon in the air as we drive down to Peepal Kothi from Delhi Airport. Created by distinguished hospitality veteran Vijay Chowdhry, Peepal Kothi is to be my first brush with Haryana beyond Gurgaon. Exactly after an hour’s drive, we tumble down a rocky, rugged path that leads to gates that otherwise remain tightly shut. Beyond lies a three-acre garden paradise that began accepting guests since last year. The friendly staff, whom we are to get acquainted with very well over the following days leads us to a largish cottage named The Port House.

The spacious sit-out area
The spacious sit-out area

I am delighted to see its wooden exterior and spacious sit-out area with chairs that overlook the green lawns. I almost miss the two dogs sleeping peacefully under the tables; only one of them attempts to befriend us during the stay. We don’t expect luxury; after all this is a rustic farm-style boutique hotel but luxury is what we get when we enter the cottage. It has a vast bedroom and bathroom, complete with a four-poster bed, bath tub and a variety of curious antiques mostly collected by Chowdhry and his furniture store-owning wife over several years of travel.

The Orangery

The Orangery, the dining area at Peepal Kothi

We’ve had a sumptuous breakfast of omelette, roasted potatoes, baked beans, mango yoghurt and roll aboard a Vistara flight but there’s something about the fresh air and greenery of Peepal Kothi that stokes the appetite. The dining room is right across our cottage and we settle down at the shaded table outside while the staff prepares our meal. Chowdhry bought this plot of land over fifteen years ago when there was just a single tree on it. Today, it is home to over 100 species of trees and bushes including green and yellow bamboo, Buddha bellies, lime, lemon, grapefruit, pomegranate, gooseberry, neem, bargad, bael, karonda, kathal, lasura, pilkhan, shahtoot, barh, sharifa, phalsa and Chinese orange bushes, all of which attract a plethora of birds, butterflies and bees.

We spend the remainder of the day marvelling at the fallen fruits
We spend the remainder of the day marvelling at the fallen fruits

What is most interesting is that Chowdhry knew nothing about gardening when he began nurturing Peepal Kothi into an orchard of sorts. The property is entirely a labour of love and books on trees and gardening are stacked in The Orangery, for those who are interested. Our luncheon consists of the locally sourced bajre ki roti with white butter, fresh yoghurt, salad, gobhi mutter (cauliflower and peas preparation), aloo ki subzi (potato preparation), kadhi pakoda and rice. The food is refreshingly light and tasty. Some caramel custard for dessert puts us in the mood for an afternoon siesta.

Dinner is dal chawal, salad, aloo subzi, paneer masala and roti
Dinner is dal chawal, salad, aloo subzi, paneer masala and roti

We spend the remainder of the day walking around the orchards and lawns, marvelling at the fallen fruits and familiarising ourselves with Animesh the Bengali cook and caretaker, Arjinder Singh, the Himachali help, Murthi didi who makes excellent bajra rotis and earthen pots and of course, Thauji, who has been with Peepal Kothi since the beginning.


The sublime hour of dawn

Beautiful pink flowers at Peepal Kothi

Waking up in a beautiful garden paradise with not a single vehicle around for acres is one of the biggest blessings of travel. The silence is like a heavy cloud of smoke that’s slowly shattered by the brightening light of day. I hear at least 10 different birds and the happy shrieks of the ever-present kids.

The Bhandara festival

A stay at Peepal Kothi is all about leisurely meals, naps and strolls, best complemented by good company and reading material. However, our visit coincides with the yearly festival of Village Kota Khandewla called Bhandara. And so at mid-morning on our second day here, we set out with Bir Singh, the man who gets everything done in the area, for a drive to the Aravalli hills and a glimpse of the festival. We’ve already been warned about the immense popularity (read crowds) of the festival, which is actually a singing competition for ‘Raginis’ – men who narrate tales of bygone kings and Gods in the form of songs. Their efforts are rewarded with prize money ranging from Rs 91,000 to Rs 3 lakhs. But what we are NOT prepared for is the VIP treatment we receive, as esteemed guests of Vijay Chowdhry and Bir Singh.

Bhandara festival at Village Kota Khandewla, Haryana, India
A ragini prepares to sing

A local villager guides us, two women, into a vast gathering of hefty Gujjar men and leads us to a special seating area behind the singers, reserved for ‘important’ guests. We have no clue why this is happening or how we are supposed to behave. The men spare us no more than a glance. Then, our guide asks for our names and our suspicions rise. He then goes over to some elders and has a whispered conversation. Sitting there alone amidst this crowd, we feel abandoned. And then the unexpected occurs. The compere announces our presence and asks us to come on the stage! Exchanging looks of utter confusion, we walk up hesitantly and a couple of elders hand us medals inscribed with “Special guests of the Bhandara festival” and drape off-white shawls over our shoulders. Namastes are exchanged in joined hands and then we are free to go!


But the adventure hasn’t quite ended. Our guide requests me to photograph the village council with my fancy DSLR camera. I oblige. Then, he takes us through the revelling crowds to a tent where Haryanvi men are sitting and conversing over puri sabzi and sheera. This is the ‘prasad’ and though there is a separate tent for women, we have the honour of eating with the men. Since there is lunch waiting for us at Peepal Kothi, we are none too eager about this unprecedented meal. But the thick wheat puris and ghee-soaked sheera turn out to be so delicious that we scarf down much more than intended.

thick wheat puris and ghee-soaked sheera
Thick wheat puris with aloo subzi and ghee-soaked sheera

Just before taking our leave, we are greeted by the sarpanch of the village. Will the wonders ever cease? Our story is met with much merriment when we narrate it to Mr Chowdhry and the staff at Peepal Kothi. But I do like the look of that medal in my living room mantelpiece.

A serene early-morning stroll

Peepal Kothi

The morning air assumes the temperature and breeziness of spring. There is not a soul to be seen as we navigate the moist grassy lawns and walk through thickets of bamboo trees to spot some birds drinking from the pond. The still, moss-covered pond seems to belong to a bygone era, as does the beautiful little Hanuman temple adjoining it. A divine presence wafts through the woods and mingles with the perfume of the delicate flowers. I can now imagine spending an entire week here and finding myself cleansed of all worries. The peepul tree looks on benignly, as I wander through this place I’ve learnt to call home over the last few days.

Tarudhan Valley Resort

Tarudhan Valley Golf Resort

Our initial plan is to visit the Heritage Transport Museum and ogle at vintage vehicles but it being a Monday, the museum is shut. So the courteous Bir Singh offers to drive us down to the golf courses that the area is famous for. One of them has been built by Vijay Chowdhry himself, who decided to keep a couple of the villas for himself. These villas, which come with exclusive access to the golf courses can be purchased for Rs 65 lakhs, while the premier cottages are priced at Rs 3 crores. Walking around an expansive golf course with nothing but perfectly manicured green lawns around you for acres is an experience with no parallel. Tarudhan Valley Golf Resort is punctuated by idyllic ponds and bridges and little benches where you can sit and watch a game. We also visit the club house which affords a bird’s eye view of the 250 acre golf course. There are several others in the area and is the largest is the one belonging to ITC Hotel. On our drive back, we are accosted by endless herds of robust, sharp-horned cattle led by Rajasthani herders seeking fresher pastures.

An endless herd of cattle crosses our path
An endless herd of cattle crosses our path

I’ve always thought of Haryana as risky territory for travel but Peepal Kothi has changed that perception forever. Be it the affluent villagers with their penchant for white vehicles (they consider the colour lucky) or the wiry staff who defy age by cycling and walking for several kilometres daily in their sunset years, the Haryanvis never cease to surprise. And the biggest surprise of all is Peepal Kothi, where a holiday feels like a serene communion with nature.

Getting there

This wooden swing with beautiful carvings is one of a pair
This wooden swing with beautiful carvings is one of a pair

Peepal Kothi is an hour’s drive away from Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport and a mere 30 minute drive from Gurgaon. Located on the border of Gurgaon, it is technically a part of Mewat district in Haryana. You may have to ask for directions once you’re in the area; look out for a board saying ‘Peepal Kothi’ and take the little rocky path going downwards.

Address: The Peepal Kothi, Village Kota Khandewla, PO Hasanpur Tehsil Tauru, District Mewat, Haryana – 222105 India
Phone: (+91) 9953998363, 9650207467

Things to do

  • At Peepal Kothi: Let Thau demonstrate the fine art of pottery, play croquet and badminton on the lawns, linger over exotic fruit trees and tuck into delicious meals
  • Near Peepal Kothi: Walk through the village, talk to locals (Bir Singh will help break the ice) or drive down to Tarudhan Valley Resort for a tour and a game of golf (to be pre-booked)
  • Further away: Book an early morning visit to Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary (20 km) or drive down to the Heritage Transport Museum (10 km, shut on Mondays)

Rooms and tariff

Ducks in the play area
Ducks in the play area

The property has three cottages (Rs 12000 per night, double) and three suites (Rs 10000 per night, double) to choose from. We stayed in the largest and most beautiful cottage – ‘The Port House’ which is closest to The Orangery (the dining area) and the playing lawn. The suites are on the other end of the property but in a lovely shaded area, where you are completely enveloped by silence. There is no room service but you can step out and call out to the staff for anything you need. All meals are included in the tariff but you can avail of a tea service at an extra cost. The area around The Orangery is a Wi-Fi hotspot. There are some issues with electricity and water supply but the staff is able to resolve them most of the times.

Bookings: RARE – Destinations and Experiences, U-26A/6, Ground Floor, DLF Phase-3,
Gurgaon – 122002
Phone: +91-124-4062480, 81 | Mithun Mandal: +91-9650207467


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